Kashmir

[A]gar Firdaus Ba-Roohe Zameenast Hameenasto Hameenasto Hammenast...
Of course, Jehangir repeated it in Kashmir and built the existing Shalimar Bagh for his queen, replicating the serene beauty. It is no secret that people visit Kashmir to enjoy its scenic beauty. I was no different. But I had another reason as well. Years ago, my mother had visited Kashmir. I too wanted to go there too. So, this year I finally managed my first trip to Kashmir. I am sure more are to come.
My friends and I decided to utilise the Diwali holiday and weekends and design a long stay in Srinagar and visit Pahalgaum, Gulmarg and Sonmarg. We were excited and rushed to Delhi airport to book right hand side window seats for ourselves. Because it is from here that one can see the snow-capped mountain peaks. We were screaming and screeching on top of our voices. It was excitement.
God, in the plane I met a guy with the most beautiful eyes. And I was about to find out that every second Kashmiri has gorgeous eyes. We decided to gorge them out and start a business of selling them to rich clients!
We had booked ourselves at a houseboat with a nice Kashmiri family who has been running this business for years (The Shelter Groups of Houseboats). But we had avoided the crowded Dal Lake and chose Jhelum. It was right opposite the S.P.S. Museum in Lal Mandi.
Anyway, all excited and screaming we arrived at Srinagar, checked in and had a cup of kawah. Everything looked and smelled WOW! We were in paradise. After a bit of rest and lunch, we went the tourist way. Our first stop was Pari Mahal, atop of Zebanwan Mountain, southwest of Dal Lake and approximately 5 km west of the center of Srinagar. It consists of six terraces built on a Buddhist ruin by Dara Shikoh, the eldest son of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. A keen observer will immediately get the feeling of a Buddhist vihara. The complex has beautiful gardens on each level and a wonderful view.
From, here began our tour of the Mughal Gardens – Chashme-Shahi, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh followed next. Wonderful Mughal layout with British renovated lawns and exquisite Kashmiri beauty. The fresh spring, the serene mountain backdrop, the silent flow of water and the autumn set Chinar trees – it is difficult to adjust your eyes to the abundance and blessing of nature on this land.
Sadly, we had gone there with an itinerary. Kashmir is not a place to explore with a map and mineral water. It is to relax and enjoy. We went in autumn, to couple the Diwali and Bhai Duj holiday with the weekend, we missed a lot. Autumn means, no snow, cold weather but no cherries! However, there is no more any concept of off-season in India. It is either season or peak season.
So I will not talk about our little itinerary. I will babble about what I liked. And to my mind comes three things – Sun Temple in Martanda en route Pahalgaum, meeting an old class-mate in S.P.S. Museum and sipping kawah while pretending I know a lot about dry fruits and saffron. I will also tell you what I did not like. Let me talk about that first. Tips. In any tourist place the auto-wala, drivers, waiter etc. etc. on top of their regular cuts and pays, loots you with their demands of tips. I think I spent more money on tipping people than on shopping.
Secondly, I think the Kashmiris are very rude. They are all sweet till only 1830 hrs. After that if you do not let them go back to their home, they can be the rudest people. It leaves you wandering ‘shouldn’t they be following our time-table?’ I do agree, sun sets by 1800 hrs and it becomes dark, but how does it matter to a tourist? It is a bit strange given the fact that most of the places are at least 3 hours drive from Srinagar and they do not start early due to fog.
But our driver was anyway kind enough to take de-tour at 1700 hours and take us to Martanda (another name for Sun, the son of Aditi) Temple in Anantnag district. I came across the existence of this early 8th century CE temple in “Jesus Lived In India.” Frankly, I found that book quite bogus. Anyway, it is mentioned in the book, Sun Temple is laid of Jewish ground-plan. The photograph looked interesting. So, it was there in the back of my mind, but not in our itinerary. But, the cute Sardarji who guided us about the history of the ruins of Avantiswamin temple insisted that we must visit the Sun Temple. So we did. It is beautiful. The temple though in ruin, gives out in every way the aura it had once held.
The main deity is missing and there is not much adoration on the walls of the temples. It is but an early temple that was developing into the formal North Indian temple architecture. It has a beautiful garden maintained by the ASI staff and an orchid. It is a must visit. However, locally this is famous as Purana Surya Mandir of Panadav valley. Please do not stop at the new Surya temple that many confuse Martanda temple with. The road up to the temple after you cross the Martanda market is equally beautiful. One must also stop at the Shiva temple just before Avantiswamin Temple.
Later however, when I checked with my curator-friend from S.P.S. Museum informed that though many believe that there was a prominent number of Jews in Kashmir, there is no archaeological evidence. It will be though interesting to dig deep because the father of our house-boat had typical Israelite look and some customs apparently matches the Jewish tradition. We do know that there were Jews in Afghanistan. Now however, there is probably only one Jew left there and he could well be dead by the time this article is published. The point being many people has migrated from Afghanistan. In earlier times, many entered Kashmir through the silk rote before the Common Era, as popularly believed.
Kashmir is not just rich because of its natural beauty. The land is known to be tolerant of many religions and races. It amalgamated various traditions into its own custom and spread it to the world. The remnants of it can still be felt.
Continuing with our journey from the Martanda temple, we stopped to buy dry fruits and saffron. There are number of shops that sell them. But we stopped at a recommended shop ‘Kesar Kissan’ right where the saffron fields end when you are coming from Srinagar. Or, is just before the field begins when you are going from Pahalgaum.
We entered the shop quiet late. At least it seemed like ten when it was only 1845 hours. The moment we entered, we were hit by strong smell of dry fruits and chumma chumma song that was playing in the television. We were loaded with dry fruits, saffron, shilajeet and information about them. We were tired and the whole talk seemed like jabbing. But then miracle happened – we were served the best kawah I have had. Saffron, dry fruits and saccharine cup of tea. With just a cup of kawah, he sold us a bucket!
On the last day of the trip, I got time to meet an old class-mate. I am a Museologist and this frienddid his post-graduation in Museology with me in Delhi. I was meeting him after 8 years. He was back then an Assistant Curator. Today, he is almost the whole and soul of the museum. And I am so proud of him. He was kind enough to show us around the museum. Explain the exquisite and unique collection they have. I was disappointed that this government museum charges Rs 2000/- (Yes, two thousdand rupees) per gallery as photography fee. But when I saw the collection of terracotta tiles, some brilliant sculptures and the interior of the palace, where the museum is housed, I was in full agreement.
My friends and I were regretting for not having enough time in hand to stand in front of every object and admire it to its full potential. In fact we did not have time to cover a lot of places. We missed out on the down-town area and all the old houses and monuments there. We missed out on shopping! Lal Chowk, local stalls and restuarants. The list is long. So, I am going back again.
I know you will not miss out Pahalgaum, Gulmarg and Sonmarg. But it is an advice to spend at least three days in Srinagar itself. Next time I will be only at Srinagar and then go to Jammu by road.

zindagi hai ye zindagi
kisi gair ki nahi
apni hai magar kuchh kum si sahi
n[a] jaane kyun phir bhi
hai ghulam ye kahin
lagta hai jaise kisi ki adhin hai abhi
jo bhage is se to sharm kaisi?
koyee ilzaam to nahi
koyee qaid nahi koyee gair bhi nahi
apni hi hai ye zindagi
to phir kyun ruke hum
tere dar pe jhuke hum
teri ijazaat zaroori toh nahi
dil hai mera ab bhaa huya
ankhein hai door tak dekhti
kuch nahi hai samne magar
pao[n] mein zajeerein kaisi?
na hi hai rengti bazuyein meri
waqt par teri
hoom mein azaad, suna hi sahi
kyun ki zindagi toh apni hi hai "bande"
kisi gair ki to nahi

Nilanjan Som
27/07/2011
2200 hrs

Quotes by self

1. Conscience is the honesty of selfishness!

2. ...however, I tried! mati mein mil na paye, ret ka na jane bande kaise boott banaye.

3. I lost all my faith when I found God is u... U saved my life from pain by sticking it at my back! .... to all the fcukers who knows me better than I.

4. ek qaid ek pinjra, magar azadi pe aitbar bhi toh nahi
[19th February 2011; 22:33]

5. yeh saali zindagi, jo do ghari udhaar li toh boli terii hi to hai.
jo tu kare so kare, mujhe parwah nahi iski.
bas dekh zara, kharch na ho jaye sab waqt kahii[n]...
to, baith gaya hum bhi soch ne yehi
ki saali zindagi bitaye to bitaye kaisi
[10th February 2011; 16:23]

6. taqdeer hai maya bhi ye zindagi khud ki nahi... azadi tere qaid se bande ko mumkeen nahi
[27 January 2011; 16:05]

7. na jaane kis subho ka intezar mein raat hai bekarar
kal sehar ye shehar chod denge hum bhi...
[13 May at 17:53]

8. wo jo sanam mere bewafa nikle
hum bhi to saath na nibhaye the
jo door tujhse guzre zamane
tujh ko na bhool paye the
ab wapas teri bahaon mein
......aane ko tamana hai
teri dhup-chaon angiyare mein
paanchii ka koii basera hai
'bande' chal ab laut ke ghar ko
duniya toh wahi basana hai
[21 May 2011; 1445]

5th July 2005 2000 hrs

Sagor sagor, O anonto sagor
harayiicho prokritir probol rochonaye
bhore uthe mon monushho bedonaye
tsunami holo ki tomar drir naye?


Sagor sagor, O anonto sagor
bohiya cho koto noyoner jol
mitayeyacho moder trishna shokol
aar eyee begeyee shobhota ochol


Sagor sagor, O anonto sagor
keno aaji abar rudhho eyee mon?
tomar bina nahi shrishti shompon
bhenge dao keno maya-r shopon

5th July 2005; 1730 hrs

anonto gogone ekaki cheye thaki
bashaye phiriya chole bhromor-pakhi
kalo meghe dhakaye neeler phonta
nilanjana-r mukhe nayee kono katha

he aakash, anadi tumi
lukayeechho mone somoyer katha sobi
bishal hridoye tomar gopon koriyacho ki
bolo aamaye, aaj tomare shuni

dur-duranto, deshe-bideshe
ghure berayo na na beshe
jeeboner eyee khela dekhe jao
shokoler mon jene nao

aaji boli tore, mor bedona
aamaye tumi, bhule jeyo na
tomar aamar hridoye shoman
aami je tor bekul moner gaan

kotha aache joto, shure bandhi chol
khule di eyee hridoye chonchol
poncho bhute mishiya shrishti
jeeboner krira koritecho prokriti

What would you change about yourself?

I know God made me super great and gave me an amazing life. But I was just wondering the other day - if I could, what would I change about myself?
- my job
- my circle of friends
- my address.
Turned out to be quite a long list!

Is it just me or are there other people with such thoughts out there. So, tell me world…
What would you change about yourself?

katha

na jane kyun khinch le jate hai log
shahar ki aur.
kehte hai, aa baith meri mehfil mein,
dekh in diwaron pe
un tasviron ko,
aur pehchaan unme mujhko zara.

kucch der, tak-ke tasviron ko
yeh soch mein dub jata hai man mera,
kya auro ke rango se
likhi jati hai, apne jiwan ki katha.

Nilanjana Som
21/06/2007

Untitled

Achchha, aaj sudhu sudhu
Mon keno tomar kotha bhabche?
Keno aaj chobir moton
Chokhe bheshe ashchhe tomar chhaya.
Sriti te harano naam
Bar bar dhe-u-er moton
Uthe ashche mukher goraye?
Oh! Aaj tor shoto botsor hoye che.
Tayee aabar ekbar
Tor joy joy kare
Nebhe poreche shob rasta-ye.
She-I poth harano, drishti hara bhokto.
Geye chole-che tor gun gaan
Jeno unmat atama
Proshonno hoye niye tule che
Aar ekbar hridoye.
Aami o to pagoler moton
Chutilam tahader pichu.
Kintu, e kon pothe
Tumi haath dhore tene niye ele bondhu?
Ekhane to tomar namer
Prodip jolche na!
Roshni ta hole ki kore hobe?
Hothat mukh tipe hashcho je?
Andhokar eyi botobrikher niche
Moddho ratre eyne thatta kocho bujhi?
Ye, amar chokkhu nidrar bhare
Jeno juriye elo
Eiyi alo! Kothaye eyi alo
Lal, nil, holud, shobuj
Na na ronge tim tim
Tarar moton.
Tobe rong bodla cho je.
Eki, e to shob ogroshor
Holo eki dike.
Oiyi dekho, shob rong miliye
Shunnotar moton kalo hoye phut-lo
Bujhlam, eyi shada ar kalo, ek.
Er milone ache aro koto rong
Tumi bujhi eyi shoto botsor
Soto jug dhore rong niye chol kor cho?
Dekho, oyi tomar das
Toma-ke shara dilo.
Na, mati ta ke lal rong
Diye dhuye, kochi shobuj pata chire
Nil jole shob bhashiye
Holud rong-er moton
pulokito ahom kore
tomar sheyi chotto ghorer
bahire pahara dicche.
Achchha, ekhon chol.
Abar giye oyi rong-er
Mishron-ne shada-kalo kaalir
Khela kori.
Ashi. Abar ek jonmer
Bidayi niye nijo grihe
Ghriho-probesh kori

Nilanjana Som
04/06/07