I cannot describe Jodhpur as a tourist, as I never was or will be an outsider for that place. Not expecting more than rock and sand when I first landed, I lived there for a year-and-a-half! I worked in the Meherangarh Fort museum, away from the urban lifestyle of Delhi, the capital of world’s largest democratic country.
My accommodation was arranged at the base of the fort; the palace was at my back and below the fort complex was the old part of the city, lit like zillions of stars at night. It sounds like I am taking you through my personal space. I have lived and worked there, strolled in the fort garden, gone up the ramp to look at the city below or sat on my terrace gazing at the stars above. The Halloween feel on no moon or sudden bark of dogs in the middle of my sleep or the musical fan in the tranquillity of night going cham-cham! But the best part was during full moon when the whole fort was bathed in moon-light.
The fort as it stands today is a vertical building of palaces at various floors, a long fort wall and two fort entrances – ‘Jey Pol’ (Victory Gate; ‘Jey’ is a Hindi word) made by Maharaja Man Singh in 1808 is the main gateway and, ‘Fateh Pol’ (Victory Gate; Fateh is an Urdu word) leading to the old city was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh in 1707.
The foundation of the city was laid by Rao Jodha in 1459 CE, after whom the city was named Jodhpur. The old city was also established at the same time and, the brahmans (priestly class) were settled there. Even today, sixty percent of the residents are brahmans and so, famously known as Brahmapuri. The houses here are painted blue - indigo mixed with white-wash, a modern-day practice to keep insects out and, the house cool
I often ventured out to explore the old city and each time could not stop myself from laughing at the sight. Stray cows are a common sight in every Indian city, what probably be not, is foreigners running after them (to photograph) with the expression on their face ‘the famous Indian cow!’
I too faced curious looks of the locals every time I passed those streets as women do not wander alone in that part of the country.
Today, Brahmapuri is a crumbling dirty town fighting the problem of organic growth like most cities of India. Though originally, Jodhpur was well a planned city divided into various quarters with proper roads connecting them. The broad main roads led to the slightly narrower secondary bazaar streets to the narrowest of all, the tertiary residential streets with underground sewage system. The houses were built so as to cast their shadows on the street, keeping it cool and shaded for those who dared to brave the desert heat of Rajasthan. Brahmapuri and the rest of the old part of Jodhpur still maintain that distinct feature.
Each gully had a chabutra, where the men gathered to gossip and play cards or chaupar (Indian dice game). The colonies are named after the occupation of the residents or the place from where they had migrated, like Jaisalmerwalaon ki gully. Like the rest of Rajasthan, Jodhpur is also about colour and sand-dust. On either side of the gully are colourful shops of haldi, mirch-dhaniya-garam masala powder, leheriya sarees, batik dupattas, men dyeing yards of cloth, jutti, puppet, wooden camel and horse. This ends at the crowded bazaar of the Sardar Market around the Clock Tower, outside which, begins the new city.
Since 1459, the city has expanded from north to south and risen by approximately 8 meters now touching the base of the fort towards the Fateh Pol. A technical detail, forts were always built on a hill top and the city in the valley around it. Depending on the history of development of ancient towns over a span of 400-500 years, the old parts of some cities like Jodhpur have seen an upward vertical expansion while in cases like Gwalior, the old city has spread outwards but not upward.
The fort today is accessed by the visitors from Jey Pol. The first stop on that side of the city is Jaswant Thada, the Rathore memorial. Built in the memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, this royal cremation ground has chattris (cenotaph) of the royal family. Made of Makrana marble, the primary cenotaph looks beautiful when the sunlight penetrates it creating a beautiful play of light and shade.
Here I would like to mention, Jodhpur was the capital of the former Marwar State ruled by the Rathore dynasty. Today it is one of the most urban districts of Rajasthan. It offers some amazing places to stay. One such place being the 19th century Bal Samand Palace (probably built even earlier), it is now converted into a hotel and has the most romantic garden restaurant. In fact, garden restaurant is probably one of the highlights of Jodhpur. Every other night-restaurant is in the garden of an old haveli (mansion) usually offering a wonderful view of either the Meherangarh fort or the last palace of India, the Umaid Bhawan.
This 20th century palace is the resident of Maharaja Gaj Singh II and his royal family. A large section of the palace was converted into a five star hotel, now managed by the Taj Group and, a small part houses a museum. Often, many tourists complain that Umaid Bhawan is not as grand as the palaces in Europe. I would like to point out that this palace was designed in the 1920s with a different appreciation and understanding of architecture compared with 15th – 18th century European palaces and Indian forts. It was built to employ the people of Marwar during the drought years – part charity and partly a design to build a new house.
Umaid Bhawan Palace echoes the appreciation early 20th century Europeans had for Eastern and African art and their effort to amalgamate the occident and the orient. It reflects the influence of Buddhist philosophy, Hindu mythology, Greek aesthetic, Chinese mythical animals and the contemporary Art Deco.
Speaking of art, Jodhpur has a beautiful collection of paintings mostly commissioned by Maharaja Man Singh (r. 1803 – 1843). He was a devotee of the Shaivite Naths unlike other Marwar rulers who worshipped Lord Krishna. He built a temple dedicated to his Nath Guru, the Mahamandir (the Great Temple) as it is called – has beautiful wall paintings of the legendary Nath Guru, Jallandarnath practicing ‘haath-yoga’. It is a beautiful temple in the middle of the Nath’s residential area. This is the only part of the city where I could see remnants of the past and felt nostalgic. Old jalidaar jharokhas (perforated and carved windows) looking lost in concrete buildings, carved railings with wet cloths drying on them, carved doors and windows with flaking wood and once in a while, peeping old bricks probably have been there for two hundred years waiting to crumble down any moment.
This sad state is true for any old Indian city. William Dalrymple makes the same observation about Lucknow, fast losing its ‘tehzeeb’ (conduct). I have been there and raise my hand in agreement. What probably is worse, when a city loses its face, its people, its tradition and habits and its individuality, like pigeon flying, kite flying, kids running up and down the narrow gullies, women getting together outside someone’s or anyone’s door and gossiping.
I often pondered over my coffee at Café Coffee Day (the only coffee house in the entire city!), whether it was justified the way I used scorn the royalty – ‘The page three people!’ Just a couple of months back I was watching a debate ‘We The People’ on NDTV, whether these yester-year royalties should still use their titles? I say why not ‘democrats.’ It is so easy for us, living in large cities all our lives, reading ‘Page 3’ and then dismissing them as the ‘pleasure seeking rich.’ Maharaja Gaj Singh II would be a perfect example of a man with vision and compassion for his people. The family not only undertakes charity work but has put Jodhpur on the international tourist map.
In the last 30 years, from the verge of losing all his property, he has managed to keep it all as well earn profit. As an unbiased judge who has seen it from the inside, I would say it is an effort worthy of respect. Today Jodhpur is a hub for international activities on the cultural circuit. Meherangarh Fort has earned recognition from UNSECO, participated in international exhibitions, is the first private museum to hold an independent exhibition of its collection outside India, the first Fort-museum to introduce audio-guides… the list is long.
This is all I can pen down about my stay; let the rest stay in my memory. These experiences are beyond words and one cannot live through words lest it’s not enough. I often visit those corners and transport myself to my apartment sipping cold wine in winter under the open sky on the terrace, singing to myself.
My accommodation was arranged at the base of the fort; the palace was at my back and below the fort complex was the old part of the city, lit like zillions of stars at night. It sounds like I am taking you through my personal space. I have lived and worked there, strolled in the fort garden, gone up the ramp to look at the city below or sat on my terrace gazing at the stars above. The Halloween feel on no moon or sudden bark of dogs in the middle of my sleep or the musical fan in the tranquillity of night going cham-cham! But the best part was during full moon when the whole fort was bathed in moon-light.
The fort as it stands today is a vertical building of palaces at various floors, a long fort wall and two fort entrances – ‘Jey Pol’ (Victory Gate; ‘Jey’ is a Hindi word) made by Maharaja Man Singh in 1808 is the main gateway and, ‘Fateh Pol’ (Victory Gate; Fateh is an Urdu word) leading to the old city was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh in 1707.
The foundation of the city was laid by Rao Jodha in 1459 CE, after whom the city was named Jodhpur. The old city was also established at the same time and, the brahmans (priestly class) were settled there. Even today, sixty percent of the residents are brahmans and so, famously known as Brahmapuri. The houses here are painted blue - indigo mixed with white-wash, a modern-day practice to keep insects out and, the house cool
I often ventured out to explore the old city and each time could not stop myself from laughing at the sight. Stray cows are a common sight in every Indian city, what probably be not, is foreigners running after them (to photograph) with the expression on their face ‘the famous Indian cow!’
I too faced curious looks of the locals every time I passed those streets as women do not wander alone in that part of the country.
Today, Brahmapuri is a crumbling dirty town fighting the problem of organic growth like most cities of India. Though originally, Jodhpur was well a planned city divided into various quarters with proper roads connecting them. The broad main roads led to the slightly narrower secondary bazaar streets to the narrowest of all, the tertiary residential streets with underground sewage system. The houses were built so as to cast their shadows on the street, keeping it cool and shaded for those who dared to brave the desert heat of Rajasthan. Brahmapuri and the rest of the old part of Jodhpur still maintain that distinct feature.
Each gully had a chabutra, where the men gathered to gossip and play cards or chaupar (Indian dice game). The colonies are named after the occupation of the residents or the place from where they had migrated, like Jaisalmerwalaon ki gully. Like the rest of Rajasthan, Jodhpur is also about colour and sand-dust. On either side of the gully are colourful shops of haldi, mirch-dhaniya-garam masala powder, leheriya sarees, batik dupattas, men dyeing yards of cloth, jutti, puppet, wooden camel and horse. This ends at the crowded bazaar of the Sardar Market around the Clock Tower, outside which, begins the new city.
Since 1459, the city has expanded from north to south and risen by approximately 8 meters now touching the base of the fort towards the Fateh Pol. A technical detail, forts were always built on a hill top and the city in the valley around it. Depending on the history of development of ancient towns over a span of 400-500 years, the old parts of some cities like Jodhpur have seen an upward vertical expansion while in cases like Gwalior, the old city has spread outwards but not upward.
The fort today is accessed by the visitors from Jey Pol. The first stop on that side of the city is Jaswant Thada, the Rathore memorial. Built in the memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, this royal cremation ground has chattris (cenotaph) of the royal family. Made of Makrana marble, the primary cenotaph looks beautiful when the sunlight penetrates it creating a beautiful play of light and shade.
Here I would like to mention, Jodhpur was the capital of the former Marwar State ruled by the Rathore dynasty. Today it is one of the most urban districts of Rajasthan. It offers some amazing places to stay. One such place being the 19th century Bal Samand Palace (probably built even earlier), it is now converted into a hotel and has the most romantic garden restaurant. In fact, garden restaurant is probably one of the highlights of Jodhpur. Every other night-restaurant is in the garden of an old haveli (mansion) usually offering a wonderful view of either the Meherangarh fort or the last palace of India, the Umaid Bhawan.
This 20th century palace is the resident of Maharaja Gaj Singh II and his royal family. A large section of the palace was converted into a five star hotel, now managed by the Taj Group and, a small part houses a museum. Often, many tourists complain that Umaid Bhawan is not as grand as the palaces in Europe. I would like to point out that this palace was designed in the 1920s with a different appreciation and understanding of architecture compared with 15th – 18th century European palaces and Indian forts. It was built to employ the people of Marwar during the drought years – part charity and partly a design to build a new house.
Umaid Bhawan Palace echoes the appreciation early 20th century Europeans had for Eastern and African art and their effort to amalgamate the occident and the orient. It reflects the influence of Buddhist philosophy, Hindu mythology, Greek aesthetic, Chinese mythical animals and the contemporary Art Deco.
Speaking of art, Jodhpur has a beautiful collection of paintings mostly commissioned by Maharaja Man Singh (r. 1803 – 1843). He was a devotee of the Shaivite Naths unlike other Marwar rulers who worshipped Lord Krishna. He built a temple dedicated to his Nath Guru, the Mahamandir (the Great Temple) as it is called – has beautiful wall paintings of the legendary Nath Guru, Jallandarnath practicing ‘haath-yoga’. It is a beautiful temple in the middle of the Nath’s residential area. This is the only part of the city where I could see remnants of the past and felt nostalgic. Old jalidaar jharokhas (perforated and carved windows) looking lost in concrete buildings, carved railings with wet cloths drying on them, carved doors and windows with flaking wood and once in a while, peeping old bricks probably have been there for two hundred years waiting to crumble down any moment.
This sad state is true for any old Indian city. William Dalrymple makes the same observation about Lucknow, fast losing its ‘tehzeeb’ (conduct). I have been there and raise my hand in agreement. What probably is worse, when a city loses its face, its people, its tradition and habits and its individuality, like pigeon flying, kite flying, kids running up and down the narrow gullies, women getting together outside someone’s or anyone’s door and gossiping.
I often pondered over my coffee at Café Coffee Day (the only coffee house in the entire city!), whether it was justified the way I used scorn the royalty – ‘The page three people!’ Just a couple of months back I was watching a debate ‘We The People’ on NDTV, whether these yester-year royalties should still use their titles? I say why not ‘democrats.’ It is so easy for us, living in large cities all our lives, reading ‘Page 3’ and then dismissing them as the ‘pleasure seeking rich.’ Maharaja Gaj Singh II would be a perfect example of a man with vision and compassion for his people. The family not only undertakes charity work but has put Jodhpur on the international tourist map.
In the last 30 years, from the verge of losing all his property, he has managed to keep it all as well earn profit. As an unbiased judge who has seen it from the inside, I would say it is an effort worthy of respect. Today Jodhpur is a hub for international activities on the cultural circuit. Meherangarh Fort has earned recognition from UNSECO, participated in international exhibitions, is the first private museum to hold an independent exhibition of its collection outside India, the first Fort-museum to introduce audio-guides… the list is long.
This is all I can pen down about my stay; let the rest stay in my memory. These experiences are beyond words and one cannot live through words lest it’s not enough. I often visit those corners and transport myself to my apartment sipping cold wine in winter under the open sky on the terrace, singing to myself.
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Encyclopedia Somnica!
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